Irish traditional buildings - The Big House

Drawings by Rory O'Shaughnessy. Texts by Christy Cunniffe and John Joe Conwel

The Big House conveyed an aura of power, prestige and privilege and its size and scale symbolised the owner's standing in the community. It represented the Golden Age of the Anglo-Irish Ascendancy and was a symbol of British imperialism. It was often viewed by the Irish tenantry as a symbol of oppression.

On a visit to Ireland in 1812 the English surveyor, Edward Wakefield, remarked that Galway had more big houses than any other county.

The vast majority of these were to be found on the more fertile lands in the east of the county. The evolution of the ﾑBig Houseﾒ, which reached its heyday in Ireland in the 18^th century, represented a progression from the earlier more military type towerhouse to the classical house that put greater emphasis on decoration and ornamentation as well as the comfort of the family. Subdivision of the dwelling space, allowing for individual privacy, was a key feature of these houses.

House types

In addition to the many "Big House" ruins to be found across southeast Galway there are a significant number of classical houses of diverse architectural types which are still intact and accessible to the visitor. Some of the earlier houses incorporated older towerhouses and examples of these are to be seen at Castle Taylor and Tullira. Portumna Castle, built before 1618, reflects the transition from medieval towerhouse to the more modern classical house and is referred to as a 'semi-fortified mansion' or manor house. It retains some defensive features such as loops and a fortified outer bawn wall. Eyrecourt Castle, built circa 1660, best represents an early example of a fully undefended classical house in the region.

The varying styles of classical house such as Palladian, neo-Gothic, Regency and Victorian had their origins in Europe and reflected different time periods beginning in the early years of the 17^th century. The Palladian style of architecture is the most common in the region and this reached its high point in Ireland in the middle of the 19^th century. It placed strong emphasis on symmetry, perspective and the values of the ancient Greek and Roman temple architecture. These rectangular houses, usually of three storeys, had bays and wings attached.

The Demesne

A landlord's estate was divided into the demesne and tenant holdings. The demesne was the private farm of the landlord surrounding the 'Big House' from which no tenant's holding could be seen. It was typically surrounded by a stone boundary wall which ranged in height from three to six metres. Entrance to the house was through a substantial gateway with wrought-iron double gates. A stone cut gatelodge was located close to the gates and often as many as six gatelodges were to be found on a demesne depending on the number of approach avenues. The inhabitants of these lodges guarded the entrances and admitted the carriages of approved visitors. The approach avenues varied in length and were often tree-lined or simply bordered by grazing parkland interspersed with the occasional oak, ash, elm or beech tree. It was usual to have the ruins of a towerhouse, ringfort or monastic settlement located on the demesne to signify the family's longstanding association with the area. Where these features were absent they were compensated for by the addition of follies or summerhouses. The Galway landed class were noted for hunting and shooting and so their demesne usually contained a good deal of shrubbery for fox coverts while in others pheasantries were found.

In the part of the demesne nearest the house pleasure gardens with walks and lawns for ornamentation were developed. At Portumna Castle a formal renaissance style ladies garden was located at the front of the house. Sometimes fishponds or artificial lakes were developed close to the house, as at Woodlawn where a facility suitable for boating and angling was created. In later years a tennis court or croquet lawn was laid out to cater for the sporting family members and visitors.

At some distance from the house was located the walled garden. The high wall made it difficult for intruders to enter but more importantly it provided shelter for the growing of all types of crops. Typically it contained an orchard, an area for growing vegetables, an area for flowering growing and glasshouses for the growing of exotic fruits such as peaches, nectarines and grapes. A bothy house, which provided accommodation for the garden workers was an additional feature. At some locations, such as Portumna, a separate kitchen garden was designed to satisfy the food requirements of the house. The walled garden attached to Woodville House near the village of Kilchrist, together with its attached dovecot, has recently been tastefully restored and is open to the public. An icehouse was another necessary addition in the demesne to prolong the shelf life of meat. Those at Woodlawn and Marblehill are particularly striking.

Demesne land also had an economic value. Corn was grown and ground in the estate mill but the majority of demesne land was given over to rearing the landlordﾒs cattle. Extensive woodland provided commercial timber and firewood for the house as well as adding to the scenic value of the demesne. In addition a variety of stone-cut out-buildings were to be found. The stables and other farm buildings were often arranged around a quadrangular cobbled courtyard, the centrepiece of which was a deep well powered by either donkey or horse. Over the entrance to the courtyard was a large bell, used to call employees to their work.

The houses and associated estates of the landed gentry were centres of trade and employment. The owners of such houses often laid out roads, canals, villages and towns. They built mills, churches and schools and engaged in public works. In some cases the land reclamation, drainage works and planting schemes of improving landlords greatly altered the topography of the landscape. They organised the holding of fairs and markets.

These powerful gentry figures were usually well connected politically and often held high positions in civil administration. They served as members of parliament, in the diplomatic service, undertook military service or joined the church. At local level they acted as county or deputy lieutenants, magistrates and grand jury members. They served on the Board of Guardians of the local Poor Law Union and held key positions on the Board of Governors of the District Lunatic Asylum which opened its doors in Ballinasloe in 1833. Lord Ashdown used his influence in the mid 19^th century to ensure that the Dublin-Galway railway line had a stop adjacent to his demesne at Woodlawn.

 In east Galway, as elsewhere, landlords were patrons to education, the Arts and the Church. Ulick John de Burgh, 14^th earl of Clanricarde was British ambassador to Russia (1838ﾖ41), later British cabinet minister (1846 - 52) as well as lieutenant of county Galway (1830 - 1874). Sir William Gregory, from Coole Park, became a trustee of the British National Gallery in 1867. In the 1860s Lord and Lady Clonbrock, both of whom were keen photographers, built a photographic studio and dark room close to Clonbrock House. 

Employment

The landlord's estate with its big house employed a large number of people each assigned specific duties. In some cases the lord took responsibility for the male employees while the lady took charge of the female servants. In their absence a steward or estate manager would oversee the running of the entire establishment. An improving landlord would often make use of the services of an agriculturalist to advise on best farming methods. A surveyor was involved in the laying out of plots for leasing and for mapping the entire estate. The agent generally looked after the collection of rents and where the estate consisted of distinct parts a number of sub-agents were employed.  Herdsmen farmed plots of land throughout the estate which the landlord held for himself. In turbulent times they also kept an eye on the neighbouring tenants. When evictions had to be carried the landlord availed of the services of a bailiff and if necessary emergency men.

The horse was an important animal in the lives of the gentry to provide transport, carry out farm work as well as for the recreational purposes of hunting and horseracing. Blacksmiths, farriers, coachmen, carpenters, stable masters, stable hands and grooms were employed at various levels in the stable yard to cater for these needs.

Ground staff played an important in the upkeep and maintenance of the grounds. The head gardener was responsible for the grounds around the house and for any additional gardeners, grounds men or seasonal workers who needed to be employed. Skilled stonemasons provided an important service in the building and upkeep of demesne walls and other cut stone structures.

Gamekeepers were employed by the landlord to manage specific areas of woodland or waterways to ensure that there were sufficient game birds for shooting, deer or foxes for hunting or fish for angling. They were also engaged in the prevention of poaching of these areas. If a pack of hounds was associated with a Big House a Master of the Hounds was employed. The larger houses of southeast Galway were famous for the many social functions and house parties that were held in them and a large corps of servants was required to service them.

To tend to the family's every need the house employed a large number of domestic staff organised in an hierarchical fashion. The butler was the head of the household staff and usually took charge of the pantry, wine cellar and dining room. The housekeeper was the senior female servant and the equivalent of the butler. She had responsibility for the appearance of the house and was in charge of all female servants. The cook was in charge of the kitchen and its staff and normally reported to the lady of the house. A valet performed the role of the master's personal attendant while the lady's maid or the lady in waiting performed a similar for the lady of the house. Footmen presented the public face of the household by answering the door, delivering letters and waiting at dinner. They wore knee breeches with silk stockings. A governess was employed by the family to act as a private teacher to the children. In addition to their education she was responsible for instilling correct moral principles in them. Housemaids, chambermaids, parlour maids, nursery maids and scullery maids were also employed, as were nannies, chauffeurs, lady companions and hall boys.